World's Fare

Finally, here’s a piece from my own collection, a “souvenir” that isn’t really a souvenir at all, but a genuine Fair relic.

Chicago restaurateur Dario Toffenetti opened his first permanent New York establishment in the summer of 1940, after his Fair concession proved a big hit with the public.

By all accounts, Toffenetti was something of a showman, known for the lofty, florid language with which he described his food. Here he is on the lowly spud:

Toffenetti’s was “famous for ham and sweets.” I must confess it took me some time to realize “sweets” meant sweet potatoes. “Spaghetti a la Toffenetti” was also a popular dish, and in typical Toffenetti fashion, was touted as “an old historical recipe of Mrs. Toffenetti, procured from the Castle of Count Belvidere.” By 1948 the story had become a touch more elaborate: “The sauce is made from a treasured recipe of old, discovered by Mrs. Toffenetti among the ruins of the ancient castle of the Count of Bonpensier in Bologna.” Ahem.

Whatever its origins, Mrs. Toffenetti’s meat sauce recipe has survived. Here it is, verbatim, as given in Crosby Gaige’s Food at The Fair:

This recipe is for six people. Two packages of spaghetti, seven ounces each, are used.

First prepare the sauce. Take three ounces [6 tablespoons] of butter and melt in a saucepan over the fire. Chop one ounce of onion very fine, place in butter and fry until brown. Grind one pound of lean round steak and place in pan with butter and onion. Then add a whole can of (six ounces) Paoli Tomato Paste, twelve ounces of water, one level teaspoon of salt, and one pinch of pepper.

Stir the whole mixture and bring to the boiling point, then let it boil for exactly 25 minutes, stirring it from time to time. Then skim surplus fat and your sauce will be ready.

Take a pot with one and a half gallons of water, bring it to the boiling point, add one teaspoon salt, two boxes (seven ounces) unbroken spaghetti, and boil for 25 minutes.

Drain water from spaghetti and place spaghetti in large mixing bowl. Grate two ounces of genuine Parmesan cheese, and sprinkle over the spaghetti in layers. Take your sauce, pour spaghetti [sic], mix thoroughly and place on a large platter, sprinkling over a little more cheese and you are ready to serve.

So guess what I had for dinner last night? With one very minor exception, I followed the recipe for the sauce exactly, right down to the “boiling” time. The only thing I did not do “a la Toffenetti” was measure out one ounce of onion; because A, I didn’t feel like getting out my kitchen scale for such a small amount, and B, because I love onions and one OUNCE of onion isn’t nearly enough. So I just chopped up about a third of a large yellow onion. (Oh. And I also didn't use Paoli tomato paste, whatever that is; I used Trader Joe's organic. Oh. And I also didn't grind my own beef. Trader Joe's again.) I ignored the directions regarding the spaghetti itself (boil for 25 minutes?!), but did follow the bit about tossing it with some Parmesan before saucing it.

The result? Pretty darn tasty, I must say. I really expected that it would be bland, but was quite pleasantly surprised. It was meaty and rich and not overly tomato-y. I’ll definitely be making it again.

By the way, the menu pages above are from the awesome collection of the New York Public Library. They have quite a few from Fair eateries, and you can browse the collection online here.  Bon Appétit!